Me surfing, early spring 1989.

This picture has been in my wallet forever, thus the discolouration. I'm the one riding the soup into the beach - that arm sticking up in the air was sort of a signature thing. I never realized I was doing it when I was out there, but I always did it. You can see how big the waves are further out if you look closely at the specs to the right of me. Those are my friends Jessica and Matt. The waves weren't huge that day, about a metre and a half - give or take, because it was nearly spring and the big winter waves had already gone away. In the winter, November through January, this spot would often get four metres or more.

Oringinal post: http://mbarrick.livejournal.com/29819.html